Friday, March 4, 2011

Bicycle Diaries


DAY TWO: Vet’s Mem to Kirk Creek

Miles: 62.52

Time: 7:06:01

Barely energy to write. Gnarliest day EVER! First hill out of Vet’s was killer at 8AM.

and traffic whizzing by at 70+Only got worse from there. Road had tiny shoulder

Big Sur has gnarly hills. Foggy and cold all morning riding uphill into the wind. Stopped halfway up first

really tough hill at about 9AM and a family in a minivan gave me an apple and some water. Thought that was the biggest hill I had ever seen in my life. I had no idea what was coming.

Cursed Jesus and the Lord a lot. Also cursed Mother Nature – fucking bitch. The views were spectacular, but after a certain point it was like, “Okay, I get it!” At the moment I feel like if I ever see another stretch of pristine unspoiled coastline, I might swim out until I find a baby seal and club it to death.

Around lunchtime it got hot. One hill I had to get off and walk a bit. Luckily jut then I came upon a coffeeshop and “spirit garden.” Filled up water @ shop and walked spirit garden, which was exactly what I needed – shady and soothing and full of beautiful statues and art work, fountains and tree houses. Art all very Mexican. They had a stage for live music and a restaurant with a nice patio. Too bad I’m too broke to eat somewhere like that.

Feeling refreshed, got back on the road. Every hill went on for days. I kept thinking, “this must be the end,” only to round a corner and see more uphill bullshit. Hilly all the way to the end. Cursed cars going by – “Fuck you! You have no idea what this is!” So easy to push your horn at me while you breeze by at 65 mph. Mitch Hedberg and Earl Greyhound on the iPod got me through some tough spots.

Kirk Creek is beautiful – right on the cliffs next to the ocean. I barely made it here before dark. I can hear the waves and smell them. No showers, which totally blows as I am absolutely filthy and covered with tacky, near-dry sweat. Ranger gave us free wood, so we made a fire and ate Top Ramen. Pretty sweet. Mina got here before me. I have no idea how.

Tomorrow will be more hills for the first 22 miles, then flat (I think!) Only 40 miles, so we can hike at the end or go to the beach (hurrah!)

My shoulder is screaming.

Whose fucking idea was it to build a road through Big Sur anyway?

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Bicycle Diaries


August 18th, 2010

DAY ONE: 521 Encino Drive to Veteran’s Memorial Park

Miles: 42 Time: 4:30:58

This was the same ride – nearly – I did on Monday, so not much to report except that this time

the weather was much clearer – warm and perfectly sunny – and the ride felt easier, even with the added weight.

I set out at 10:15 AM, an hour later than I had planned to, and hit Seaside pretty quickly. Lost a pannier outside a mechanic’s and got help from the owner – a really friendly guy who gave me an alternate route to the one I had, and also fixed my pannier and gave me a couple of bottles of water. He had an Asian assistant named Manny who didn’t speak English, and a cute dog named Jenny.

The ride from there to Monterey was beautiful – right beside the ocean, literally.

Got to Monterey early and felt like ploughing on, so got directions to Los Lobos. Proceeded to waste an hour getting horribly lost in Monterey and gave up on Los Lobos and went back to original plan

to stay in Monteret at Veteran’s Memorial Park. P.S. the hill up to Vet’s Mem is ridiculous. Steep and never ending. I made it up the first half okay, got to a building and thought I was there – it turned out to be a rec. center and bar, not the campsite. The campsite was another ½ mile up (and I mean up) the road. Eventually had to get off and walk – too exhausted by this point in the day.

The campground is small with a nice maintained park (i.e. swings, slides and roundabouts.) Cash only, which I didn’t know, so I have to go back down the hill to the bar and get cash. Oh well – good excuse for a beer! J

Met a girl named Mina in the site next to mine, who is doing the same ride, but carrying on to Mexico. Maybe we can ride together some way. All in all – first day went SPLENDIDLY!


Thursday, February 3, 2011

Bicycle Diaries



August 17th, 2010

ONE DAY BEFORE LEAVING

Yesterday I rode to Marina (actually, I rode to Seaside by mistake.) It was tough – today I am sore, neck and shoulders especially. But it feels good.

The ride was beautiful. San Andreas road was bright and sunny and even though

it was the middle of the day, there was almost a full moon in the sky. From San Andreas, I wound through the farmland behind Watsonville. The air smelled like warm strawberries, heavily fragrant, almost muggy, and the roadside was lined with trucks and old Hondas belonging to the Mexicans working in the fields. Time was I would feel guilty about enjoying a bike ride on a Monday afternoon while other people slaved away in the hot sun, but I have learned to accept my good fortune and be grateful for the life I lead.

The route followed the highway for a while. I recited iii vi ii V I progressions to myself to keep my mind off the enormous trucks blasting by me at sixty miles an hour.

Out of Moss Landing I turned back into farmland and rode into the wind for what felt like days. The weather turned chilly. The sky was getting grey and wet and the road was rough. I put my iPod on and rode slowly, hating wind.

Coming up on Marina, I followed the Monterey Peninsula Recreational Trail, which ran alongside the highway, next to the railroad. Sand dunes rose up on either side of me, covered with tiny wildflowers and bushes.

I passed some cyclist heading the other way and waved. Everyone I passed – cyclists, runners, dog walkers – I had the absurdly strong desire to wave at. I felt immediately connected with these outside people, enjoying the cold, foggy air, enjoying the pain of physical activity, feeling – I assumed – much the same way that I did about many things. Most of the cyclists – old yuppies with streamline helmets and spandex body suits – seemed not to take me seriously in my rolled up yoga pants, cheap windbreaker and little brother’s old skateboarding helmet.

At REI in Marina I bought bicycling shorts, a couple of jerseys, an odometer and some other bits and bobs I will need – so fucking expensive! Don’t they realize that it’s not just rich old yuppies who ride bikes? Broke students need spandex shorts too!

I leave tomorrow. Today will be devoted to packing and picking up the few remaining items I need. I think this is going to be okay. I think I’m actually going to make it.


Friday, January 28, 2011

Bicycle Diaries


August 12th, 2010

SIX DAYS BEFORE LEAVING:

I figured I’d better start writing again to get back in the habit before I leave, since I want to log every day on the trip.

The last couple of weeks have been relatively stressful; being right in the middle of Cabaret – this is the last weekend – trying to plan this trip and prepare for it, both physically and in terms of equipment; working at the Lutheran church camp and finding out today that I have bronchitis – so it turns out the haggard, phlegmy cough I have had for three weeks is not just going to go away by itself. I’m freaking out about money because all the stuff I need for this is really expensive and I still need to pay for food and camping, and I’m starting to wonder if I will even physically be able to do the ride. All signs point to the craziness of the whole endeavor, but I guess I am going to do it anyway, bronchitis and all.

Part of me is absolutely terrified and part of me is like, “dude, chill, it will be okay.” Such is life. Talking to Adriane today at Cabaret after the show reaffirmed the feelings I have towards life right now. I’m very confused, I’m pretty scared most of the time and I have no idea where I’m going or what I’m doing, but apparently I’m okay with it. Maybe working at the Lutheran church is getting to me – God has a plan and everything will be cool if I try to do the right thing. If I hadn’t been raised a strict Atheist I probably would have made a good pastor. I mean, I get it. It’s all the same shit. Just people trying to deal with being scared.

So I am doing this thing. At least attempting it. I might end up being pretty miserable for most of the trip, but I said I would do it. I’m really excited. If I actually pull it off it will be awesome. My mom is really excited. Lolly is excited to see me in LA. I would be letting a lot of people down – especially myself – if I didn’t do it. This is not going to end up being one of those crazy ideas I have that I never follow through on. This is going to work.

UPDATE (next morning): The more research I do, the better I feel. The book I got – Bicycling the Pacific Coast, is phenomenal, and YouTube videos about packing for long tours put me at ease J

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Gun Control and the Black Market

I remember in 9th grade having to present an argument in my social studies class - we could argue for or against anything we wanted - and I chose to argue for a ban of the second amendment. I was astonished at how many kids were angry. I thought that everyone would agree with me - I mean, this is Santa Cruz - but most of them were very offended. They started claiming that the second amendment is an American institution and that it can't just be changed. They seemed to think that taking something, anything, out of the constitution was like taking away one of the Ten Commandments. And when I argued against the entrenchment of institution for the sake of institution alone, many of them came back with exactly what second amendment purists seem to say - that outlawing guns would only force them onto the black market. I didn't have an argument for this when I was a freshman in high school, but I knew there was something illogical about this statement. As it was, I couldn't form a decent response, and I lost the debate. I still can't really put into words what I think is wrong with this sentiment, but I think it has something to do with the defeatist attitude it implies. A "Why even bother to try and make anything better - it's all going to shit anyway" mentality. This is the kind of mentality that destroys the morale and motivation of citizens, and it is absolutely rampant in the world today. The black market is the black market - a completely separate issue that should be dealt with as and when needed. Allowing the threat of the black market to determine whether or not we outlaw guns in this country is cowardly and ass-backwards. Should we also legalize cocaine to take it off the black market?
I'm not saying that the second amendment should be banned - I no longer believe that it is an appropriate thing to do. Though I do not personally agree with the use of hunting rifles and shotguns, I can see that for many people they are a part of life and it is not for me or for anyone to decide to take them away from citizens who do use them responsibly. Semi-automatic weapons and handguns, on the other hand, are a completely different story, and they need to be controlled. Unfortunately, I don't believe it will happen within my lifetime - America is too entrenched in its constitutional tradition, just as England is still clinging desperately to its royalty. And anyway, as with most natural and man-made disasters, it doesn't seem to happen very often, really, and it hasn't ever happened to us, has it? These kinds of things don't happen to us, we just hear about them on the news. Every time some lunatic with a gun kills a bunch of people, the issue is raised, and for a few weeks it's all anyone talks about. Then something else happens, and the issue is dropped, forgotten about, or played out. Didn't the same thing happen a decade ago at Columbine? And what really came of it? The same thing that will come of this, probably - Michael Moore will make a movie and we'll all go and see it because, you know, it's like, a relevant issue, and then suddenly it will be Valentine's Day, we will realize we haven't bought a present for so-and-so, and we will completely forget about it.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

I listen to Led Zeppelin facedown on top of Led Zeppelin

I don’t think of Led Zeppelin as being made by people. I think of it as being hewn out of mighty tree trunks on a mountaintop somewhere in the middle of the Earth. I think of it as an avalanche of sound that cascades down from that mountaintop like a sea of white horses, burying everything, becoming wind and rain and the air that we breathe. Listening is like managing to jump on the back of one of those horses as it goes by – once you get there and are clinging on for dear life, you realize that it's rough and cold and the spray is really hitting you in the face and stinging it pretty painfully...but you are still having one fucking whopper of a good time. The whole experience feels as though at any moment it might snowball out from under you in a flurry of angry arms and feet. A toddler’s angry arms and feet. And then they play That’s The Way and you want to cry. Fuck Tangerine by the way. That song is nothing in comparison.

Jimmy Page’s tone is like a spiderweb. It is so delicate that you cannot help but be surprised at the way it supports your entire body. The notes spin out so fast you would expect them to snap and break like cheaply made toys, but no! They are elastic and tenacious and very very strong. His solos blow through you the way a really hard wind chills you to the bone and then knocks you down.

Ramble On is the best song about being in a forest that I've ever heard. At first it sounds like tiny feet running really fast. I imagine a little gnome in a pointed red hat running over a mossy forest floor. The bass starts in like big dollops of rain into a pond. The guitar is the shards of reflection on the pond. Then glass melts into water and we ripple on into the chorus. Which comes out of left field like “Wooooooshhhhh!” Perhaps that's what the gnome is running away from.

I don’t think I like Robert Plant’s voice so much as I like singing along to Robert Plant’s voice. It’s just right there in that epically fun part of my range where I can basically cover everything, and every other thing is just seeing how far I can really take it. Most people I talk to about Led Zeppelin cite his voice as one of the main reasons (usually the main reason) they don’t like the band, and having listened to it in a setting other than my car while I'm driving home from high school, I have to agree. And yes, most of the lyrics do leave something to be desired as far as poetry goes. That said, there is something about Robert Plant’s voice that basically embodies everything that Led Zeppelin is about: it’s deep in a weirdly shallow way.

I don’t really know what to say about John Bonham. Maybe because I’m listening to the beginning of Bring It On Home, where there are no drums. As soon as that fury kicks in after all this harmonica bullshit

oh there it goes.

Yeah. Bonham’s drums are the only truly solid things in the band. I don’t mean solid as in “good” or “tight.” I mean solid as in truly sturdy in the way a redwood trunk is sturdy. They kick in like soccer cleats – rooting you firmly to the earth and at the same time helicoptering you forward at a terrifying rate. John Bonham plays drums like a person angry with drums. Unlike Keith Moon, who I think just was a person who was angry with drums.

And of course, predictably and unforgivably, I have completely forgotten about JPJ until this moment. How can one man have so much to do with the sound of a band and receive so little credit for it? And I don’t mean from people who know. Obviously everyone who knows two fucks about Led Zeppelin gives him credit, but even then it’s always almost apologetic. Even people who really respect him tend to talk about how underrated he is, and tend to mention him only after they have finished talking about Page, Plant and Bonham. Maybe because what he really did had nothing to do with playing bass – though he fucking destroyed at that, obviously – and more to do with musicality and arranging. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, listen to The Rain Song, and after you’ve finished building, and worshipping for hours, an alter to John Paul Jones in your living room/studio/bedroom/closet, call me, and we can talk about it.

I think I just came to Dazed and Confused. I’m actually out of breath and all I was doing was sitting in bed in my pajamas playing air guitar. And air drums and bass and pretending to sing onstage in front of thousands of people.

Fuck Led Zeppelin is amazing.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

The Things She Refused to Leave Behind

She lived in a house the size of a matchbox, at the very last address on the very last street in the very last town at the edge of the world. Out of the little kitchen window she stood at to wash the dishes, she could see only sunshine and smoke – white and hazy and filled with nothing, like a magic trick. In fact, from that angle, there was no indication that her house was built on anything at all. It seemed to hang like a constellation, suspended in the void.
The house was as wizened and crooked as she was – stooped and creaking, with crumbling walls inside and a bravely repatched exterior. Everything seemed held together with a few nails and some strategically placed duct tape. And the way it perched on top of its tiny hill – the only one for miles – made it appear in constant danger of capsizing, either back into the laps of her neighbors, or out into the sunshiney nothing.
Her friends, if she had had any, would have called her a packrat. Her neighbors, though they didn’t know her, called her ‘eccentric.’ Even from the bottom of the tiny hill, they could see the evidence of The Things She Refused to Leave Behind. Her front yard was a museum of ceramic pots, small fruit trees, milk crates filled with old car parts – these were hidden under the front porch – tennis balls, and small decorative boulders that served as tanning beds for an endless string of errant cats. And more yet: along the top of the garden fence, an assortment of empty wine bottles, arranged just so. Chipped and repainted lawn gnomes hidden among the trees and flowerbeds. Hubcaps of various sizes nailed around the garage door like enormous dull Christmas lights. A roadcone painted turquoise. Everywhere flowers. Exploding out of pots on the front porch, trailing out of windows and around door frames, smeared like thumbprints along the path to the garden gate. The yard was beautiful, there was no question – everything positioned very exactly, everything cared-for. There was just so much of it.
Inside – as though the yard was only there to catch what spilled out of the house – coffeeandend tables struggled to hold pounds of knick knacks. At least one bookshelf stood against every wall, bursting with musty hardbound and paperback books like rows of uneven teeth, some unread, some falling apart. In corners, piles of alphabetized magazines and newspapers supported the ceiling. Randomly saved beercans and more wine bottles were clustered like modern art displays, and chunky coffee mugs had been filled with soil and now contained the flowers that wouldn’t fit in the garden. An outoftune piano served as the music library. Above it, stretched across a corner of the ceiling, a stained and torn flag bore the symbol of the republic of California. A hobo had thrown it over her after a concert in LA. “Rock and roll, Kurt Cobain is dead,” he had sung to her, as he ran into the street. And pictures. Framed, unframed, pinned to the wall with thumbtacks – old movie posters, show fliers, watercolor paintings, collages made by small children – whose? – and in a tiny gold frame in the middle of the mantelpiece, a timefaded family portrait. Everybody looking slightly to the left.
Her bedroom was at the center of it all. Her bed lay in the middle, a sea of pillows and comforters and handmade quilts. Her closet was like the costume department of a professional theatre company. Pairs of sunglasses and bits of ribbon and scarves and necklaces with charms and bracelets and earrings dangled from every available hook and corner, and stretched across the mirror, and lay like silver puddles on the nightstand. Under her bed, stacks of shoeboxes held the most precious memories – photographs, ticket stubs, letters from old boyfriends, the nametag from her first job, the cast from her first broken wrist, newspaper clippings her mother had saved from the day she was born, her senior yearbook picture, her ragged journals – she had written in one every single day since she was fifteen – and an urn; empty.
She never threw anything away. When she did “a big cleanup,” which she did about twice a year, she simply rotated things. Things that had become less significant would be relegated to the living room. Things from the living room went into the garage. Things in the garage were moved aside or put into boxes with other things, or moved out into the yard. Things in the yard grew into the soil, or became trees, or sometimes escaped through the fence and went clattering down the hill into town, like children on the last day of school. Every so often, on her way home from work or shopping, she would stumble across a hubcap in a neighbor’s yard, and exclaim, “There you are!” and carry it back with her as though she couldn’t live without it. These recaptured treasures would usually find themselves back inside the house and it was sometimes years before they made it outside again.
Only once had something made it far enough away to be lost forever. This was years ago, before she lived in the crooked little house at the edge of the world, before her hair grew wiry and she stopped throwing things away. She was still in LA, living with a boy who had pink hair and wrote songs about love. It was a skateboard, peeling on top, painted orange underneath, that had been modified with a black Sharpie and his young, eager hands. It had rolled away very suddenly one day, on wobbly wheels that badly needed replacing. She had searched for it for months after it happened – spent nights weeping in the cold with a flashlight. Sometimes now, when an errand took her over to the edge of town, she still had a look for it, though LA was a worldandahalf away, and by now her search was more for show than anything – she thought that perhaps if whoever had taken it saw her still looking for it, they might be inclined to return it.

A long time ago, she had been a musician. Now she worked as a secretary for a small real-estate office in town. Recently, the company had moved its location to a nicer, bigger office down the street. The building was light and airy and smelled yellow. She supposed she couldn’t ask for a nicer coffin.
Her coat had hung on the rack by the door for fifty years. It hung like it had done something wrong – the way a dog does when it has pissed on your favorite rug. Like a hapless sack of guilty potatoes. It quietly watched people come in and out. Sometimes someone coming in – a new client, or a skittery new intern – would glimpse it out of the corner of their eye and turn abruptly, hands raised, mistaking it for a silent third person in the room. Sometimes, when the air outside was silent and the office unbearably still, it would fall off the rack. Just for a lark.
Her desk held no knick knacks or books. She hadn’t collected any in the fifty years she had been living in the crooked house and working for the real-estate company. Everything she had at home came from a time before. Besides, company policy stated that there was to be no intrusion of personal life into the office. It was a pity – she could have used the storage space.
She walked to and from work every day the same way – down the hill, across the street, past the bus stop and around the corner. Then it was a mile down the town’s main street, stopping occasionally to look in shop windows or collect wayward hubcaps that had escaped from her yard. She walked very slowly, hunched in that way specific to very old people. She never needed a cane. She never once came up against a red light – she had learned to time her trip perfectly to coincide with green lights. In this way, her life shuffled slowly on.

On that particular evening, she decided to take a different road home so she could walk past the park. The air felt pinker than usual, and there was a strangely electric openness in it that made her want to be outside. The skateboard was sitting so obviously in the middle of the sidewalk that she didn’t see it at first. It wasn’t until she was right on top of it that she realized what it was. She froze. Her blood felt suddenly new and vital in her old limbs. She stared at it like a rabbit stares down a car. She wanted to pick it up but she couldn’t move. The skateboard grinned up at her and began to meander away on a gust of wind. The yelp in her throat propelled her after it.
It was an intense low-speed chase. The skateboard yawned along lazily, stopping every once in a while so she could catch up, waiting until her hand almost touched it, then rolling on. She creaked after it, cursing under her breath. The light in the sky turned pink to match the air.
She finally caught up to it at the edge of the park. It had come to rest, either by accident or by choice, in a bush by the lake. The swans were out like yachts, telling dirty jokes to each other and looking down their noses at the bits of bread children threw to them. She snatched up the board and held it in front of her face. It was unchanged. Not a day older, not a bit more worn. The same signature was still scrawled across the underside – similar to hers but bolder. There was still a small chunk missing from the front lip. A small bloodstain the same shape as the scar on her left palm. Wobbly wheels.
She held it against herself with her arms. The sky was pinker than it had ever been – a deep orangepink like an Indian Grapefruit. She smiled at the swans polka-dotted against the black lake. Then she turned around and walked home.

The crooked hill and the matchbox house were razoredged against the sinking sun. Everything was so ablaze in the sunset that at first she didn’t see the fire. When she got closer, though, she smelled the smoke. It smelled like books and handmade quilts.
By the time she got to the top of the hill, the house was so engulfed in flame that it was the sun. Tiny flowers popped and crackled around the porch. Inside, she could hear piano wires snapping violently. An upstairs window crashed open like a piƱata, spraying shards of glass and dumping china dogs, earrings, paperweights and thumbtacks onto the lawn. A beam fell from the top of the porch, and suddenly the whole house seemed to be tipping toward her like a jar of marbles, spilling kick knacks. Things rolled past her feet and through the fence. Inside, pots and pans fell with bursts of applause. Scraps of posters and watercolor paintings launched themselves still flaming through open windows, burning up in-flight, leaving trails of smoke in the sky. The house wasn’t burning down. It was burning out. The grass around her feet began to take. Clutching the skateboard like a life raft, she turned and hurried down the hill toward town. She had suddenly remembered she needed to buy matches.

The house didn’t tip over after all. One wall remained – the back wall with the kitchen window facing into nothing. It stood up like a bad haircut. Everything else was gone. Still clutching the skateboard against herself, she shuffled her feet through mountains of ash, kicking for buried treasure. An hour ago she had been standing by a lake watching the swans. Her foot touched something hard. She bent down and retrieved the urn; empty. Slowly, she sat down in the ash and examined the skateboard in the changing light. She blazed the sight of it into her mind. She pressed her nose against it. She rubbed every rough edge with her fingertips. She spun the wobbly wheels. She licked it.
She reached into her pocket and pulled out a box of matches. Lit the whole thing and placed it under the skateboard. It burned orange and pink, like an Indian Grapefruit, and was gone in minutes. She scooped the ash into the empty urn. Stood slowly and went to the kitchen window. The hazy white expanse of nothing behind it was streaked with gold, like a creamsicle. When she opened the window, the air opened too, warm and electric. She tucked the urn under her arm and climbed out into the void. Stars pricked holes in the sky.