Bicycle Diaries

DAY TWO: Vet’s Mem to Kirk Creek

Miles: 62.52

Time: 7:06:01

Barely energy to write. Gnarliest day EVER! First hill out of Vet’s was killer at 8AM.

and traffic whizzing by at 70+Only got worse from there. Road had tiny shoulder

Big Sur has gnarly hills. Foggy and cold all morning riding uphill into the wind. Stopped halfway up first

really tough hill at about 9AM and a family in a minivan gave me an apple and some water. Thought that was the biggest hill I had ever seen in my life. I had no idea what was coming.

Cursed Jesus and the Lord a lot. Also cursed Mother Nature – fucking bitch. The views were spectacular, but after a certain point it was like, “Okay, I get it!” At the moment I feel like if I ever see another stretch of pristine unspoiled coastline, I might swim out until I find a baby seal and club it to death.

Around lunchtime it got hot. One hill I had to get off and walk a bit. Luckily jut then I came upon a coffeeshop and “spirit garden.” Filled up water @ shop and walked spirit garden, which was exactly what I needed – shady and soothing and full of beautiful statues and art work, fountains and tree houses. Art all very Mexican. They had a stage for live music and a restaurant with a nice patio. Too bad I’m too broke to eat somewhere like that.

Feeling refreshed, got back on the road. Every hill went on for days. I kept thinking, “this must be the end,” only to round a corner and see more uphill bullshit. Hilly all the way to the end. Cursed cars going by – “Fuck you! You have no idea what this is!” So easy to push your horn at me while you breeze by at 65 mph. Mitch Hedberg and Earl Greyhound on the iPod got me through some tough spots.

Kirk Creek is beautiful – right on the cliffs next to the ocean. I barely made it here before dark. I can hear the waves and smell them. No showers, which totally blows as I am absolutely filthy and covered with tacky, near-dry sweat. Ranger gave us free wood, so we made a fire and ate Top Ramen. Pretty sweet. Mina got here before me. I have no idea how.

Tomorrow will be more hills for the first 22 miles, then flat (I think!) Only 40 miles, so we can hike at the end or go to the beach (hurrah!)

My shoulder is screaming.

Whose fucking idea was it to build a road through Big Sur anyway?